The History of Rolex

Rolex founder, Hans Wilsdorf (1881-1960)

Early beginnings in ... London

The company's founder, Hans Wilsdorf, was born in Kulmbach, Bavaria, on March 22, 1881. One of three children, Wilsdorf was orphaned at the age of 12. He was raised by his uncles, who encouraged him to be independent and self-reliant at a very early age. According to Osvaldo Patrizzi, author of Orologi Da Polso Rolex, Wilsdorf later attributed his success to that early upbringing. As a teenager, Wilsdorf studied mathematics and languages at school and apprenticed with a prominent exporter of artificial pearls. At 19 he went to work as an errand boy and English translator for Cuno Kourten, a major clock and watch exporter in La Chaux de Fonds, Switzerland, which, along with Geneva, formed the hub of the high-quality watchmaking industry at the time. There, Wilsdorf was exposed to the most influential people and practices in watchmaking, which would later be an important asset in the founding and success of Rolex.

In 1903 Wilsdorf moved to London, where he worked for a large watch store. Two years later, he borrowed money from his sister and brother-in-law to establish his own company, Wilsdorf & Davis, with his brother-in-law a partner in the venture. Wilsdorf chose London for his new enterprise at least in part because of its position at the time as the world's economic center. Its colonial holdings gave England tremendous wealth as well as a network of trade avenues that would later be advantageous in Rolex's international business. 

Early in his venture, Wilsdorf demonstrated his nature as a risk-taker and innovator by making a large investment in small caliber lever escapement wristwatches. He spent several hundred thousand Swiss francs, five times the capital of his firm, on the first order. Wilsdorf purchased the internal mechanisms from the Swiss firm of Herman Aegler, a manufacturer whose reputation for quality Wilsdorf knew from his time as an apprentice. The mechanisms were machine-made and so were available at a reasonable price; they were also durable and precise.

To house the mechanisms, Wilsdorf supplied the cases, which he purchased from well-known English manufacturers. The cases were made in sterling silver and three types of gold in a wide array of styles for dress, casual, or sportswear. The watches sold briskly in England and abroad, including the Far East. Working in concert with Aegler on logistical aspects of production, Wilsdorf developed a line of immensely popular watches.

The next several years saw many changes and innovations at Wilsdorf & Davis. In 1906 Wilsdorf introduced the expandable metal watch strap. This style of strap, made to match the watch case, would become a signature Rolex look continuing to the present day. The next year, Wilsdorf opened a technical office at La Chaux de Fonds, Switzerland. Wilsdorf delegated the management of that office, obtained British citizenship, and settled in London, marrying a short time later.

By 1908 Wisdorf's firm became one of the leading watch companies in the UK. It was that year that he coined the name Rolex. Rather than immortalising his own name on the watch face as many other Swiss watchmakers had done, Wilsdorf made one up. It is said (though it has never been confirmed) that he chose "Rolex" by drawing this name from the French phrase 'Horlogerie Exquise' (exquisite watchmaking). Whether this story is true or not, the fact is that it would grow to become one of the most recognised brands of all time.

In 1910 official recognition for Rolex watches was gained from the 'Bureau Officiel' in Bienne, an organisation whose praise was well regarded in the watch industry. It wasn't until four years later, though, on July 15, 1914 that the first 'Kew A Chronometer Certificate' was awarded to Rolex after 45 days of rigourous testing at the Kew Observatory in London. The watch was tested in various positions and temperatures, including inside a refrigerator and an oven. Wilsdorf now insisted that all his watches must pass these tests before being sold.

Early technological advances

During First World War, the British government levied a heavy import duty, and this decision forced Wilsdorf to transfer the export of his watches to his office in Bienne, which he had opened in 1912.

In 1926 the Rolex Oyster was released. Wilsdorf reportedly came up with the name at a dinner party when he had a hard time opening an oyster. He apparently said to other guests that he hoped his new watch would prove to be as resilient as the oyster. True to his word, the Oyster was indeed sturdy. It was the first wristwatch to be considered waterproof, which was proven the following year when a British woman, Mercedes Gleitze, wore it in her successful bid to cross the English Channel. She emerged from her fifteen-hour swim with the watch functioning perfectly. This was great publicity for Wilsdorf, who had sponsored the event and gained considerable worldwide exposure for his new Oyster Watch. The timepieces were displayed prominently in jewelers' shop windows, inside a fish tank totally submersed in water;

Wilsdorf's next triumph came in 1931 when the Perpetual Rotor was created, a mechanism that was the basis for self-winding movements. So Wilsdorf had invented not only the first truly waterproof wristwatch but also one that relied on just the simple movement of the wrist to power itself.

Modern lines

In 1945, Rolex received its 50,000th certificate from the official testing office in Bienne. That also year saw the creation of the Datejust, the first watch to have the date display, magnified two and a half times by a cyclops lens.

In the following years Rolex released the Explorer (1953), the first Oyster Perpetual Lady-Date (1954), the GMT Master with dual time zone function (1955), and the first Day-Date, also known as President (1956).

Hans Wilsdorf passed away on July 6, 1960 leaving the running of the company to the various appointees stated in the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation, which also funded numerous educational projects, such as a watchmaking school.

Rolex continued to invent and innovate in terms of technical skill, style and design throughout the second half of the 20th century. The Sea-Dweller (1967) was certified as reaching depths of up to 4,000 feet (1,220 metres), making it the choice watch for professional divers. The Explorer II (1978) and Cosmograph Daytona (1988) were also released and added to the list of the world's most prestigious watch brands. By 1985, more than 4.1 million movements had been awarded the official 'Chronometer' title.